In Genderqueer Closets: Challenging Gender Binarism through Embodied Narratives of Affect and Style

“Queer,” once a derogatory term to refer to sexual minorities, has been recently celebrated as “the fashion avant-garde of our times” through genderqueer self-expression. Despite increased visibility in fashion, research on the feelings and daily practices surrounding genderqueer style remains scarce. This paper addresses this gap by exploring the everyday practices and emotions of non-binary individuals, using the wardrobe as a conceptual framework. Genderqueer forms of self-expression, despite its emergence, has been notably under-explored. In order to address this gap, we ask the question- how do non-binary people assemble their styles in relation to how they feel? We respond to this question through a case study involving thirteen in-depth interviews and social media analysis exploring how non-binary people style themselves, navigate societal constraints, and emotionally engage with clothing. Findings suggest that non-binary individuals assemble their styles to achieve bold contrast, resisting gender norms and navigating the gender spectrum as an exercise of self-acceptance. Their wardrobe assembly is a form of self-identification and self-expression, influenced by spatial considerations that can amplify or conceal gender expression. By theorizing these practices, this study contributes to understanding diverse gender identities in fashion studies and deepens our understanding of fashion and affects.