Design For Movement: Block Pattern Design For Stretch Performancewear
Pattern drafting techniques for woven block patterns have been well established. Applying existing techniques with modifications to generate patterns for modern stretch fabrics can be successful but it is often at a cost. In the development of a stretch pattern, an acceptable fit cannot be guaranteed merely by using a rationalised simple pattern profile shape. Producing a pattern, without darts, to closely adhere to the contours of the body without restricting movement, is a contradiction in design terms. In woven fabric, darts and ease are used to manipulate the fabric around the form and allow movement. However, in stretch knit fabric the development of a block pattern involves the synthesis of information from a variety of disciplines and requires a more specialist approach. This study has endeavoured to show that a new interpretation of pattern design principles is needed to create an improved stretch block pattern for stretch knit performancewear. This work has been refined based on a new method of classifying stretch fabric parameters and personal observation of the effect of stretch distortion characteristics and the changes that occur in the twodimensional pattern profile, when stretched to conform to the threedimensional body. The results of this study will provide a more SCientific and practical approach to assessing stretch fabric parameters as an integral part of block pattern design for stretch performancewear. The fabric stretch potential has been maximised to contour the body for optimum fit, providing comfort and mobility without the need for redistribution of the fabric when activity ceases. A method of creating a stretch block pattern from direct measurements to replicate the body shape and proportions was devised which can be reduplicated. This study addresses primarily the designer/pattern cutter who has a passion for good fit, which enhances comfort and mobility, who does not necessarily have a scientific background. However this study is relevant to the textile technologist concerned with proposing a standard to compare stretch fabrics for garment production. It should also appeal to the computer programmer concerned with the link between 3D body scanning and interpreting the body profile accurately in the 2D pattern draft.
This thesis is in 2 volumes
- PhD