Enzyme-catalysed synthesis of polymeric colorants for wool coloration and surface patterning

Abstract

There is considerable interest for improving the sustainability of textile preparation, coloration and functional finishing. An enzyme-based eco-friendly approach not only has the potential advantage in saving time and energy from conventional wet processes but also can provide unique functions to textile materials. Laccases and peroxidases (oxidoreductases) have become important enzymes for their application in textile processing due to their great versatility and capability of catalysing the oxidation of a broad substrate spectrum. The current study demonstrated the ability of laccase and peroxidase, through controlled application, to produce innovative coloration of wool textile materials. A full range of colours have been achieved through enzyme-catalysed polymerisation of different precursors or simple aromatic compounds using different processing parameters. To demonstrate the coloration and design potential by laccase or peroxidase catalysation of aromatic compounds, specially constructed fabrics using a combination of undyed wool, nylon and polyester yarns were dyed using the one-step enzyme-catalysed coloration process. The use of different fibre types and weave structures enabled simple colour variations to be produced. Shadow, reserve and contrasting effects were achieved with the enzyme-catalysed dyeing process developed.