Selective enzymatic modification of wool/polyester blended fabrics for surface patterning

Date
2018-11-10
Authors
Prajapati, Chetna
Smith, Edward
Kane, Faith
Shen, Jinsong
Journal Title
Journal ISSN
ISSN
Volume Title
Publisher
Elsevier
Peer reviewed
Yes
Abstract
An enzyme-based process was investigated to achieve surface patterning of fabrics as an alternative to conventional chemical processes. In the current study, the enzyme protease was employed to selectively modify a wool/polyester blended fabric to impart decorative surface effects. Controlled protease processing of the blended fabric dyed with Lanasol Blue CE enabled the degradation and removal of the dyed wool fibre component from the fabric blend, resulting in novel fading and differential fabric relief due to degradation of wool, revealing the undyed polyester component after enzyme treatment. A 38.5% weight loss was achieved, therefore 85.6% of the wool in the 45/55% wool/polyester blended fabric was removed from the structure. The activity of protease is highly specific, therefore, it caused no damage to the polyester component. The control studies led to the development of surface pattern designs using the enzyme process, achieving effects similar to current processes such as devor e and discharge printing. This novel enzyme process permits the replacement of harsh chemicals used in current surface patterning processes with small doses of biodegradable enzymes.
Description
The file attached to this record is the author's final peer reviewed version. The Publisher's final version can be found by following the DOI link.
Keywords
Enzyme, polyester, protease, surface pattern, wool
Citation
Prajapati, C., Smith, E., Kane, F., Shen, J. (2019) Selective enzymatic modification of wool/polyester blended fabrics for surface patterning. Journal of Cleaner Production, 211, pp. 909-921.
Research Institute
Institute of Art and Design