School of Fashion and Textiles

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    Peroxidase-catalysed coloration for fabric design with colour patterns
    (2024-06-18) Netithammakorn, Nalinee; Smith, Edward; Lerpiniere, Claire; Shen, Jinsong
    Biotechnology using enzymes has been explored in textile wet processing for potential of reducing chemical, energy and water consumption, due to being highly specific biocatalysts that can operate under mild temperature and neutral pH conditions. The current research study contributes to an understanding of the use of the enzyme peroxidase for textile coloration of wool fabrics as an alternative coloration method to using conventional dyestuff. Peroxidases, belonging to the enzyme group of oxidoreductases, can catalyse oxidation of a wide range of colourless simple aromatic compounds as precursors to form polymeric colourants. This enzymatic coloration can be successfully applied to in-situ dyeing of wool fabrics at a low temperature through peroxidase catalysis of various precursors to achieve a diverse colour palette. It was found that peroxidase can be active over a broad range of pH values to catalyse the synthesis of colourants, resulting in successful coloration of wool fabrics with various colour shades. Peroxidase catalysed coloration of wool fabrics has the potential not only as an alternative coloration process, but also by saving energy and preventing wool fibre damage. To explore the potential of enzymatic coloration for fabric design, colour patterns on fabrics were created using techniques including tie-dyeing and embroidery. Jacquard woven fabrics with different fibre yarns can also show unique colour patterns from subsequent enzymatic dyeing.
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    Development of enzyme-based biotechnology to support the wool industry transition to a circular system
    (2024-04-10) Shen, Jinsong
    There are increasing demands for textile materials to be sustainable and recyclable for circularity, and a reduction of negative impacts to the environment. Enzyme-based biotechnology could provide an alternative solution to improve wool fibre performance and limit the impact of wool processing on the environment. The current research explored biotechnology for in-situ enzyme-catalysed coloration of wool, and for recycling and reuse of low value wool and/or post-manufacture waste wool feedstocks to extract wool polypeptides for their applications. The extracted polypeptides were utilised for grafting on virgin wool fabrics to improve shrink-resist property of wool fabrics during washing and remain recyclable due to no added on chemical additives or synthetic polymer. Results obtained are being further developed within an ongoing BBSRC-funded project ENZBIOTEX (BB/X011623/1) for developing enzyme-based biotechnology for fibre-to-fibre recycling. Post-consumer/manufacture or waste wool/bast fibre blended upholstery fabrics are currently being explored for recyclability and reuse by separating the fibre components and re-processing extracted bast fibres back to fabric production. In addition, the project has also demonstrated the potential to extract the dyes from waste fabrics and reuse for textile coloration. The outcomes from the projects could support the transition of the textile industry to a circular system.
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    Enzyme-based textile coloration
    (2024-06-04) Prajapati, Chetna; Netithammakorn, Nalinee; Smith, Edward; Shen, Jinsong
    Textile coloration is typically characterised as a resource intensive production process that requires the use of large amounts of water, high concentrations of processing chemicals, high temperatures and long processing times, commonly resulting in high energy consumption and effluent waste. Consequently, this has led to rethinking approaches to textile coloration. The research presented gives an overview of current studies that investigated the use of two specific oxidoreductase enzymes, laccase (EC 1.10.3.2) and peroxidase (EC1.11.1.7) to develop a one-step coloration process. Both enzymes are capable of polymerising simple aromatic compounds to form colorants with the potential for textile coloration through the formation of conjugated chromophores via their distinctive catalytic oxidation and coupling/polymerization mechanism. A diverse gamut of hues were achieved on a range of different fibre types (flax, wool and nylon) through enzymatic catalysis of various aromatic compounds as laccase or peroxidase substrates or precursors and alteration of processing parameters such as buffer systems, pH values and reaction times. Enzymatically dyed fabrics were tested against commercial standards, resulting in reasonably good colour fastness to wash. The research demonstrates the potential offered by laccase and peroxidase as transformative tools to replace conventional industrial coloration and surface pattern design processes with biological systems, which offer important advantages of simpler processing using milder conditions that eliminate additional chemical use and reduce energy consumption. The adoption of enzyme-based biotechnologies could help the textile coloration industry transition towards a sustainable future.
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    Camouflage, behind the abstract pattern, Art-Nature-War
    (FelixArt Museum, Brussels, Belgium, 2019-11-24) Streffen, Isabella
    This research builds on H. R. Shell’s work on chameleonic camouflage (2012) to bring ideas of resubjectification through tourism and heritage into dialogue with contemporary theories of surveillance and military practice. The work was acutely topical in considering the relationship between screen/immersion, machine vision/reading and identity. The practice research and main element of this exhibition submission was the production of two new artworks The Old Razzle Dazzle VR (2019) and Dead Reckoning (2019) which reconsidered and technically updated existing works concerned with camouflage, to reframe them as immersive and resubjectified. A (cancelled due to pandemic) book chapter reflected on the research process of making the original artworks, placed them in the wider historical and theoretical context of camouflage practices, and identified immersion as a critical factor in the contemporary camoufleur’s response to machine vision (drawing on Virilio’s ideas on perceptual armaments in relation to Gough’s formulation of scopic control and Mitchell’s operation of landscapes of power).
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    Labour of the Stitch: The Making and Remaking of Fashionable Georgian Dress
    (Cambridge University Press, 2024-03-27) Dyer, Serena
    The making of fashionable women's dress in Georgian England necessitated an inordinate amount of manual labour. From the mantuamakers and seamstresses who wrought lengths of silk and linen into garments, to the artists and engravers who disseminated and immortalised the resulting outfits in print and on paper, Georgian garments were the products of many busy hands. This Element centres the sartorial hand as a point of connection across the trades which generated fashionable dress in the eighteenth century. Crucially, it engages with recreation methodologies to explore how the agency and skill of the stitching hand can inform understandings of craft, industry, gender, and labour in the eighteenth century. The labour of stitching, along with printmaking, drawing, and painting, composed a comprehensive culture of making and manual labour which, together, constructed eighteenth-century cultures of fashionable dress.
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    A Long-Time Approach to Promote Sustainability Awareness
    (Springer Nature, 2023-11-28) Hardaker, Carolyn; Penfold, Buddy; Gaukrodger-Cowan, Sally
    Environmental activism and the widespread acknowledgement of the impact of pollution from Fashion and Textiles industries has driven an educational sustainability directive that promotes designer, buyer and consumer awareness. Centred on a long-time approach that encourages cathedral style thinking and the concept of being a good ancestor (Krznaric, 2020), contrasts sharply with current fast fashion practices. Long-time advocates Saltmarshe and Pembroke (2018) state, “Short termism is rapidly becoming an existential threat to humanity” while Fletcher (2010) suggests that developing systems change for the fashion sector provides an opportunity to promote a slower culture. At De Montfort University, the School of Fashion and Textiles has been acknowledged as a leader in sustainability education, with a “Green Gown Award for Next Generation Learning and Skills”, (Sustainability Exchange, 2021), and recognises that it is the responsibility of educators to ensure future designers and buyers are aware of the criticality of their professional decisions over their careers and the impact these decisions can have on consumers. Based on long time thinking, this chapter outlines a sustainability awareness case study that was initiated as a co-creation opportunity with buying and design staff and students. Launched in 2019 as T-Extinction, the project was a provocation to think ahead to the year 2090, a time when the current students would be in their elder years and able to reflect on their careers. The first iteration involved Fashion Buying academics and students who set themselves the challenge to identify products or processes that would be extinct or taboo by 2090, (Hardaker et al, 2022). This negative premise led to positive thinking for the next iteration, where treasured textiles and associated craft skills are considered as heirlooms (Mignosa and Kotipalli, 2019) and has an immediate synergy with long time thinking. Textile Design students and academics developed this further to consider the fate of endangered crafts and developed innovative methods to revitalise them to ensure they would still be in existence in the year 2090. The co-creation of responses and the promotion of the project, across social media platforms and through physical exhibitions in Leicester showed that the thought provoking memorable visual statements created and resonated not only with the student and academic audience but with fashion consumers. First this chapter sets the environmental and industry contexts, followed by a review of current academic pedagogy and the philosophy of long-time thinking and its influence on education. The paper concludes with an educational case study that argues the value of a long-time thinking as a means of developing both industry professionals and consumer awareness of the environmental challenges posed by current Fashion and Textiles industry practices.
  • ItemOpen Access
    CCD23 Fashioning the Diaspora: Dress as a medium of cultural expression
    (Birmingham City University, 2023-11-15) Hawthorne, Davina; LLyod, Sharon; Odogwu-Atkinson, Benita
    Dress has always been used to express who we are. The way we present ourselves, and how we are perceived by others, is to a large extent, created by the clothes we wear.
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    Reimagining Higher Education: Journeys of Decolonising
    (FACE (fashion academics creating equality) Horniman Museum, 2023-11-08) Hawthorne, Davina
    Many Universities are engaged in decolonising activities or are beginning to embark on this work, whether that be decolonising the curriculum, specific disciplines or taking a more holistic approach of decolonising whole institutions. Decolonising DMU are inviting peers from across the sector to a free one-day conference to enable those engaged in this work and those embarking on it to reflect on our collective progress to date and to explore the direction we need to travel next. The conference is organised around 4 themes: 1. Equity in Education 2. Progression, Talent and Representation 3. Raising awareness, changing culture and behaviour 4. Governance and Accountability This event is hosted by Decolonising DMU which is De Montfort University’s response to racial inequality within Higher Education. The project has been running since 2019 and takes a holistic approach to tackling racial disparity, working with professional services, academic staff and students. This conference will enable us to share our work to support others on their decolonising journey, but it will also enable us to learn from other good practice across the sector so allowing us to further enhance our goal of becoming an anti-racist university. Decolonising DMU is the framework through which all race equity work is undertaken at DMU and has enabled DMU to be the first University to be awarded a Silver for the Race Equality Charter in April 2023.
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    Indigenous Heritage in Latin American Fashion
    (Bloomsbury, 2024-04-18) Beltrán-Rubio, Laura
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    Stories and clothes: Exploring textile supply chains for sustainable futures
    (Intellect, 2019-12-01) Lerpiniere, Claire
    This article explores a method for engaging students with ethical and sustainable issues within the textile design supply chain through encouraging them to explore the stories embodied within a garment. By putting themselves into the story of their garment, its production is conceptualized as a narrative, with a range of roles, timelines and locations. Exploring stories within their garment illuminates both positive and negative narratives, whereby the impacts of production methods are explored to examine current practice in industry, manufacturing, and investigate innovative models for responsible design. Through a process of reverse engineering the garment from its completed form backward through its creation, back to its base fibres, alternative models of manufacturing, distribution, energy use and design outcomes are explored and suggested. Conceptualizing each stage of the production cycle as a series of stories, from initial fibre selection through to final garment purchase and consumption, is done to encourage empathy and connections between the student designer and the people who produced their garment within the complex global textiles supply chain.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Wear and Tear: Life Stories and Sartorial Experiences in the First World War
    (Edinburgh University Press, 2024) Neal, Rachel
    During the First World War, 1914–1918, the British Army uniform provided an important tool in the transition from civilian to soldier and a symbol of a mass collective identity. However, soldier writings from the war and post-war years reveal the more individual experiences of their uniforms and the intimate relationships that formed between their physicality and the materiality of the garment. Focusing on the uniform experiences of British servicemen during the First World War, this article explores the narratives recorded in soldier correspondence, diaries and life writing to discover how men, despite wearing military uniform, continued to express the sartorial identities and practices developed as civilians. The uniform was central to soldiers’ physicality and their writings show that the materiality of the uniform became a conduit for their sensory and haptic experiences of the landscape around them. Yet the uniform remained only a temporary sartorial shift and, underneath, civilian identities and sensibilities remained resolute. Evidence of sartorial interventions and personalization expose the attempts to ameliorate the fit and feel of the uniform. Shining a light on these narratives of the uniform on a more personal and affective level challenges us to reconsider the boundaries between uniformity and individuality.
  • ItemOpen Access
    Nottingham Artists & Policymakers Cafe
    (2023-11-14) Dickinson, Laura
    Research publication launch event, presentation and public workshop for 'A Social Policy for Gentrification'. Part of the Being Human National festival of Humanities research. The café set a space to explore local planning policy in Nottingham through fashion, poetry, mark making and collage. Public received a free copy of the publication ‘A Social Policy for Gentrification’ and were invited to learn about the project with a talk from project lead Laura Dickinson and invited artist Stephen Hughes followed by an invite to respond to local urban building developments through various creative media.
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    3D Printing Based on Material Extrusion to Create Surface Patterns on Textile Fabrics
    (Springer, 2023-09-26) Alsabhi, Randa; Davies, Angela; Bingham, Guy; Shen, Jinsong
    3D printing technology has been developing rapidly in recent years. This technology is extensively used for producing prototypes of products and their designs with a wide range of materials in the manufacturing industry. The Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM) process uses the extrusion of molten thermoplastic materials through heated printing nozzle to create design objects layer by layer. The current research was to develop 3D printing technology on textile fabrics to create surface design based on FDM process using the Ultimake 3D printer. Printing parameters play an important role for printing on fabrics specially to achieve strong adhesion between the printed patterns and the surface of the fabrics. This research developed a method for assessing the attachment strength in the interface between the printed objects and the surface of fabrics. The effect of the initial setting distance between the printing nozzle and the printing platform on the performance of 3D printed fabrics was investigated. The research work demonstrated the ability to create different design patterns in 3D on the fabrics with excellent durability to washing, which shows potential for the commercial application in fashion industry.
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    A study of new washing machine for the care of delicate garments by testing on wool and silk fabrics
    (Taylor and Francis, 2023-12-01) Zhao, Xin; Shen, Jinsong; Ding, Xuemei
    There is an increasing demand for gentle laundry and care of the delicate and high-end garments for maintaining their performance and appearance during the use. A tapping washing system was designed for the care of delicate garments. Adjustable and steady up-down tapping force was applied on fabrics or garments during laundry through the centric slider-crank mechanism with control parameters, such as the magnitude and frequency of the tapping force, washing temperature and duration, etc. By comparing with traditional drum rotation washing on wool and silk fabrics, the tapping washing method could prevent felting shrinkage of wool fabrics and crease of silk fabrics, and maintain their good appearance, although the washing efficiency for the removal of soils from garments needs to be further explored. The newly designed prototype of the tapping washing device could be the foundation for future research on gentle washing without the movement of fabrics but circulation of detergent washing solution during tapping action on the fabrics.
  • ItemOpen Access
    A Social Policy for Gentrification
    (Laura Dickinson, 2023-09-28) Dickinson, Laura
    ‘A Social Policy for Gentrification' contains a short poetic series alongside photography, artworks and the co-created findings of “There’s Still Life Here” - a collection of public thought on local planning policy gathered during related exhibitive projects in both Nottingham and Leicester.
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    How is Education Championing New Equitable Practices?
    (FACE - Fashion Academics Creating Equality, 2023-07-12) Hawthorne, Davina; Lloyd, Sharon; Sabri, Dr Duna; Khandola, Max; Dawe, Katy; Nishat, Saima
    Building on last year’s success, join members of ‘Fashion Academics Creating Equality’ for the FACE Pre-Summit 1.5. Using our 4 pillars: Power Position Privilege Purpose we build on anti-racist dialogue and shared purpose
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    FACE SUMMIT - 2022: Hair, Race and Beauty Intertwined
    (FACE - Fashion Academics Creating Equality, 2022-10-14) Hawthorne, Davina; Khandola, Max; Sinclair, Rose; Tarlo, Emma
    Hair: Untold Hair Stories is an online exhibition that explores personal narratives attached to hair from Black, Brown and Asian perspectives within the UK. There are two parts to this exhibition. The first features stories and work from the FACE academic community. The second features images and texts produced by undergraduates, postgraduates and graduates of Beauty, Fashion and Textiles.
  • ItemOpen Access
    FACE X Horniman – Hair: Untold Hair Stories is an online exhibition that explores personal narratives attached to hair from Black, Brown and Asian perspectives within the UK.
    (Horniman, 2022-06-13) Hawthorne, Davina; Lloyd, Sharon; Goff, Jacob; Odogwu-Atkinson, Benita; Marshall, Michelle; Bryne, Sarah; Tarlo, Emma
    There are two parts to this exhibition. The first features stories and work from the FACE academic community. The second features images and texts produced by undergraduates, postgraduates and graduates of Beauty, Fashion and Textiles. Both students and academics explore the complex relationship between hair and identity, revealing the importance of generational traditions in different communities and the power of creative invention. The visual and written chronicles that emerge are political, many of them highlighting the continued presence of racial discrimination in relation to hair as well as documenting resistance and creativity in spite of and in response to this. Taken together, these stories highlight and celebrate a wide diversity of hair textures and hair arts while sparking conversations about long-standing Eurocentric beauty standards in the UK. These accounts should no longer be suppressed or excluded from our educational curriculum or from the beauty and fashion industries. We hope that such conversations will help to inspire upcoming generations of designers, artists and educators of the future.
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    There's Still Life Here - Exhibition
    (2023-05-11) Dickinson, Laura
    There's Still Life Here Part 2. exhibited in the DMU Atrium space from the 11 May to 5th June 2023. Building on part 1 the exhbition also included works from invited artists Gemma Vincent and Stephen Hughes alongside installation work from Laura Dickinson. The exhibition centered around three particular development sites documented in Nottingham and Leicester City planning policies. Using a multimedia approach this exhbition sought to connect public with policy around urban development. Viewers were also encouraged to participate and leave their own ideas for a social policy for gentrification within interactive elements of the exhibition.
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    There's Still Life Here - Exhibition
    (2022-07-01) Dickinson, Laura
    There's Still Life Here - An exhibition documenting gentrification of urban areas in the East Midlands, UK and encouraging public participation in the creation of a social policy for gentrification. Mediums employed include fashion, film, music and poetry. The exhibtion took place at Beta-X a community gallery on Church Gate, Leicester.