School of Fashion and Textiles
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Item Open Access 3D Printing Based on Material Extrusion to Create Surface Patterns on Textile Fabrics(Springer, 2023-09-26) Alsabhi, Randa; Davies, Angela; Bingham, Guy; Shen, Jinsong3D printing technology has been developing rapidly in recent years. This technology is extensively used for producing prototypes of products and their designs with a wide range of materials in the manufacturing industry. The Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM) process uses the extrusion of molten thermoplastic materials through heated printing nozzle to create design objects layer by layer. The current research was to develop 3D printing technology on textile fabrics to create surface design based on FDM process using the Ultimake 3D printer. Printing parameters play an important role for printing on fabrics specially to achieve strong adhesion between the printed patterns and the surface of the fabrics. This research developed a method for assessing the attachment strength in the interface between the printed objects and the surface of fabrics. The effect of the initial setting distance between the printing nozzle and the printing platform on the performance of 3D printed fabrics was investigated. The research work demonstrated the ability to create different design patterns in 3D on the fabrics with excellent durability to washing, which shows potential for the commercial application in fashion industry.Item Open Access 3D Printing to Create Surface Patterns on Textile Fabrics(2024-12-02) Shen, Jinsong; Alsabhi, Randa; Davies, Angela; Bingham, Guy3D printing technology has been developing rapidly in recent years. The Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM) process uses the extrusion of molten thermoplastic materials through heated printing nozzle to create design objects layer by layer. The current research was to develop 3D printing technology on textile fabrics to create surface design based on FDM process using the Ultimake 3D printer. Printing parameters play an important role for printing on fabrics specially to achieve strong adhesion between the printed patterns and the surface of the fabrics. This research developed a method for assessing the attachment strength in the interface between the printed objects and the surface of fabrics. The effect of the initial setting distance between the printing nozzle and the printing platform on the performance of 3D printed fabrics was investigated. The strong attachment of printed patterns on the fabrics can be achieved through the fuse of printed filament polymer into the surface structure of fabric. The chemical finishing could change the surface property of the fabrics. The water repellent finishing can improve the quality of 3D print on textile fabrics with stronger attachment. The research work demonstrated the ability to create different design patterns in 3D on the fabrics with excellent durability to washing, which shows potential for the commercial application in fashion industry.Item Metadata only A 3D Virtual On-line Environment to Improve access to Access to a Museum as a Learning and Information Resource(2008) Lin, C. Y.; Baines, E.; Higgett, N.Item Open Access A Long-Time Approach to Promote Sustainability Awareness(Springer Nature, 2023-11-28) Hardaker, Carolyn; Penfold, Buddy; Gaukrodger-Cowan, SallyEnvironmental activism and the widespread acknowledgement of the impact of pollution from Fashion and Textiles industries has driven an educational sustainability directive that promotes designer, buyer and consumer awareness. Centred on a long-time approach that encourages cathedral style thinking and the concept of being a good ancestor (Krznaric, 2020), contrasts sharply with current fast fashion practices. Long-time advocates Saltmarshe and Pembroke (2018) state, “Short termism is rapidly becoming an existential threat to humanity” while Fletcher (2010) suggests that developing systems change for the fashion sector provides an opportunity to promote a slower culture. At De Montfort University, the School of Fashion and Textiles has been acknowledged as a leader in sustainability education, with a “Green Gown Award for Next Generation Learning and Skills”, (Sustainability Exchange, 2021), and recognises that it is the responsibility of educators to ensure future designers and buyers are aware of the criticality of their professional decisions over their careers and the impact these decisions can have on consumers. Based on long time thinking, this chapter outlines a sustainability awareness case study that was initiated as a co-creation opportunity with buying and design staff and students. Launched in 2019 as T-Extinction, the project was a provocation to think ahead to the year 2090, a time when the current students would be in their elder years and able to reflect on their careers. The first iteration involved Fashion Buying academics and students who set themselves the challenge to identify products or processes that would be extinct or taboo by 2090, (Hardaker et al, 2022). This negative premise led to positive thinking for the next iteration, where treasured textiles and associated craft skills are considered as heirlooms (Mignosa and Kotipalli, 2019) and has an immediate synergy with long time thinking. Textile Design students and academics developed this further to consider the fate of endangered crafts and developed innovative methods to revitalise them to ensure they would still be in existence in the year 2090. The co-creation of responses and the promotion of the project, across social media platforms and through physical exhibitions in Leicester showed that the thought provoking memorable visual statements created and resonated not only with the student and academic audience but with fashion consumers. First this chapter sets the environmental and industry contexts, followed by a review of current academic pedagogy and the philosophy of long-time thinking and its influence on education. The paper concludes with an educational case study that argues the value of a long-time thinking as a means of developing both industry professionals and consumer awareness of the environmental challenges posed by current Fashion and Textiles industry practices.Item Open Access A Social Policy for Gentrification(Laura Dickinson, 2023-09-28) Dickinson, Laura‘A Social Policy for Gentrification' contains a short poetic series alongside photography, artworks and the co-created findings of “There’s Still Life Here” - a collection of public thought on local planning policy gathered during related exhibitive projects in both Nottingham and Leicester.Item Open Access A study of new washing machine for the care of delicate garments by testing on wool and silk fabrics(Taylor and Francis, 2023-12-01) Zhao, Xin; Shen, Jinsong; Ding, XuemeiThere is an increasing demand for gentle laundry and care of the delicate and high-end garments for maintaining their performance and appearance during the use. A tapping washing system was designed for the care of delicate garments. Adjustable and steady up-down tapping force was applied on fabrics or garments during laundry through the centric slider-crank mechanism with control parameters, such as the magnitude and frequency of the tapping force, washing temperature and duration, etc. By comparing with traditional drum rotation washing on wool and silk fabrics, the tapping washing method could prevent felting shrinkage of wool fabrics and crease of silk fabrics, and maintain their good appearance, although the washing efficiency for the removal of soils from garments needs to be further explored. The newly designed prototype of the tapping washing device could be the foundation for future research on gentle washing without the movement of fabrics but circulation of detergent washing solution during tapping action on the fabrics.Item Metadata only Adsorption equation and adsorption parameters of cellulase to cellulose fibres in biofinishing(2001) Shen, Jinsong; Shen, Y.; Sun, K.; Bishop, D.Item Metadata only Adsorption of a total crude cellulase on cotton, viscose and flax yarns(2002) Shen, Jinsong; Shen, Y.; Sun, K.; Bishop, D.Item Open Access Advertising Strategies in the Interwar British Printed Textile Industry(2006-08) Baines, E.Item Metadata only An application of queuing theory to modelling of melange yarns. Part I: A queuing model of melange yarn structure.(SAGE, 2009-11-01) Siewe, Francois; Grishanov, S. A.; Cassidy, T.; Banyard, GeoffreyA queuing model of staple fiber yarn is presented that enables the modeling and a better understanding of fiber migration in a yarn. The model provides a fine yarn structure where the migrational behavior of fibers is associated with the behavior of customers traveling across an open network of queuing systems to get services. Based on this analogy, the underlying mathematical foundation of the queuing theory is used for the modeling of yarn structure and properties. The model uses yarn technical specifications including yarn linear density and twist level, fiber linear density and length distribution, together with specific parameters such as fiber packing density distribution and migration probabilities. The model can be used for modeling a wide range of structurally different yarns; examples include marl, mottle and melange yarns, yarns with different levels of hairiness, and yarns produced by various spinning systems. The model can be used for 3D simulation of yarns in computer-aided design systems for textile design and for the prediction of mechanical properties of yarns.Item Metadata only Applied Picard-Lefschetz theory, mathematical surveys and monographs(American Mathematical Society, 2002) Vassiliev, V.Item Open Access Assessment of Consumer Preference in the Use of African Wax Prints in Ghana(International Educative Research Foundation and Publisher, 2016-10-31) Baines, E.; Chichi, C.; Howard, E.K.Africa as a continent is well noted for its artistry and culture which forms an integral part of everyday lives of the people. Africans portray themselves with a rich material culture and this is expressed in the fabrics they adorn themselves with. Notable among such fabrics are the types known as 'African prints' which are actually not of African origin but have come to be accepted as part of African textiles with the incorporation of traditional motifs. A survey of the sales and usage of of the prints shows that consumers mainly used the prints for making garments and accessories. With a variety of colourways, symbolic motifs and textures, among others, consumers have the choice to select from a wide range of prints to find the one that best suits the intended purpose. This paper assesses consumer preference in African Wax prints to ascertain the buying drivers that influenced consumers in choosing a specific print for a specific need. The study finds that consumer preference for the prints has changed significantly due to the dynamism in today's fashion trends and needs of consumers. Factors such as brand and quality, colour scheme, pattern size and layout, symbolism and cultural significance and the adaptability of the print design to fashion styles are the main driving forces that influence consumers to choose a particular print for a specific need. It is recommended therefore that textile and fashion designers should make concerted efforts to consider these factors in their design process so as to satisfy the needs of their consumers to promote the prints both locally and internationally.Item Metadata only Assessment of fabrics worn on the upper limbs(2005-11-30) Williams, J. T.; Davies, A. M.Item Metadata only Biotreatment of textile effluent Using pseudomonas SPP. Immobilised on polymer supports(2002) Shen, Jinsong; Do, T.; Cawood, G.; Jenkins, R. O.Item Open Access Blue Skies have Never Been So Blue(Taylor and Francis, 2020-06-24) Hawthorne, DavinaThis was written in Lincolnshire, England in April 2020.“I sit in my garden I look up there is a clean smell in the air and the skies have never been so blue. My house has become a haven to feel safe and a place to create.” We have more time on our hands and literally want to use them more. We suddenly have an urge to make our food from scratch and we take up knitting. Like never before we learn a new skill and we surprise ourselves! The world has changed dramatically and so have our daily lives.Item Metadata only Camouflage, behind the abstract pattern, Art-Nature-War(FelixArt Museum, Brussels, Belgium, 2019-11-24) Streffen, IsabellaThis research builds on H. R. Shell’s work on chameleonic camouflage (2012) to bring ideas of resubjectification through tourism and heritage into dialogue with contemporary theories of surveillance and military practice. The work was acutely topical in considering the relationship between screen/immersion, machine vision/reading and identity. The practice research and main element of this exhibition submission was the production of two new artworks The Old Razzle Dazzle VR (2019) and Dead Reckoning (2019) which reconsidered and technically updated existing works concerned with camouflage, to reframe them as immersive and resubjectified. A (cancelled due to pandemic) book chapter reflected on the research process of making the original artworks, placed them in the wider historical and theoretical context of camouflage practices, and identified immersion as a critical factor in the contemporary camoufleur’s response to machine vision (drawing on Virilio’s ideas on perceptual armaments in relation to Gough’s formulation of scopic control and Mitchell’s operation of landscapes of power).Item Open Access CCD23 Fashioning the Diaspora: Dress as a medium of cultural expression(Birmingham City University, 2023-11-15) Hawthorne, Davina; LLyod, Sharon; Odogwu-Atkinson, BenitaDress has always been used to express who we are. The way we present ourselves, and how we are perceived by others, is to a large extent, created by the clothes we wear.Item Open Access Challenging Barriers to the Evolution of the Saudi Animation Industry Life-Cycle(WASET (World Academy of Science, Engineering and Technology), 2015-06-04) Alharbi, O.; Baines, E.The animation industry is one of the creative industries that have attracted recent historiographical attention. However, there has been very limited research on Saudi Arabian and wider Arabian animation industries, while there are a large number of studies that have covered this issue for North America, Europe and East Asia. The existing studies show that developed countries such as USA, Japan and the UK have reached the Maturity stage in their animation industry life-cycle. On the other hand, developing countries that are still in the Introduction phase of the industry life-cycle face challenges to improve their industry. Saudi Arabia is one of the countries whose animation industry is still in its infancy. Thus, the aim of this paper is to address the main barriers that hinder the evolution of the industry life-cycle for Saudi animation – challenges that are also relevant to many other early stage industries in developing countries. These barriers have been analysed using the early mobility barriers defined by Porter, to provide a conceptual structure for defining recommendations to enable the transition to a strong Growth phase industry. This study utilized qualitative methods to collect data, which involved in-depth interviews, document analysis and observations. It also undertook a comparative case study approach to investigate the animation industry life-cycle, with three selected case studies that have a more developed industry than Saudi animation. Case studies include: the United Kingdom, which represents a Mature animation industry; Egypt, which represents an established Growth stage industry; and the United Arab of Emirates, which is an early Growth stage industry. This study suggests adopting appropriate strategies that arise as findings from the comparative case studies, to overcome barriers and facilitate the growth of the Saudi animation industry.Item Open Access Chemical recycling of hemp waste textiles via the ionic liquid based dry-jet-wet spinning technology(Sage, 2022-12-18) Rissanen, Marja; Schlapp-Hackl, Inge; Sawada, Daisuke; Raiskio, Susanna; Ojha, Krishna; Smith, Edward; Sixta, HerbertThe chemical recycling of hemp fabric into high-tenacity man-made cellulose fibres was demonstrated. The fabric was laundered 25 and 50 times to mimic the wear cycles of post-consumer textile waste. Despite the launderings, the molar mass of the material was still too high for recycling via dry-jet-wet spinning. Thus, the fabrics were treated with an aqueous sulfuric acid solution to adjust the intrinsic viscosity to the targeted level of 400–500 ml/g. The acid hydrolysed sample was dissolved in 1,5-diazabicyclo[4.3.0]non-5-enium acetate and man-made cellulose fibres were regenerated by dry-jet-wet spinning. The properties of hemp and regenerated fibres were determined by tensile testing, birefringence measurements, and X-ray diffraction. Regenerated fibres were spun into yarn and knitted into a fabric. The tensile properties of the yarn and the abrasion and pilling resistance of the fabric were determined. Regenerated fibres showed a higher modulus of toughness (55.9 MPa) compared with hemp fibres (28.7 MPa). The fineness and staple length uniformity of regenerated fibres resulted in a high yarn structure evenness, a yarn tenacity of 28.1 cN/tex, and an elongation at break of 7.5%. Due to the even fabric structure, the fabric from regenerated fibres showed higher abrasion resistance than the hemp fabric.Item Open Access Chitosan-Templated Bio-coloration of Cotton Fabrics via Laccase-Catalyzed Polymerization of Hydroquinone(Wiley, 2019-07-19) Bai, Rubing; Yu, Yuanyuan; Wang, Qiang; Shen, Jinsong; Yuan, Jiugang; Fan, XuerongThere is an increasing interest in the development of enzymatic coloration of textile fabrics as an alternative to conventional textile dyeing processes, which is successful for dyeing protein fibers. However, unmodified cotton fabrics are difficult to be dyed through enzyme catalysis due to the lack of affinity of biosynthesized dyes to cotton fibers. In order to improve the enzyme‐catalyzed dyeability of cotton fibers, chitosan was used to coat cotton fabrics as template. A novel and facile bio‐coloration technique using laccase catalysis of hydroquinone was developed to dye chitosan‐templated cotton fabrics. The polymerization of hydroquinone with the template of chitosan under the laccase catalysis was monitored by ultraviolet‐vis spectrophotometer on the absorbance of reaction solution. A significant peak of UV‐vis spectrum at 246 nm corresponding to large conjugated structures appeared and increased with increasing the duration of enzymatic catalysis. The effect of different treatment conditions on the laccase‐catalyzed dyeing of cotton fabric was investigated to determine their optimal parameters of laccase‐catalyzed coloration. Fourier‐transform infrared spectroscopy spectra demonstrated the formation of H‐bond and Schiff base reaction between chitosan and polymerized hydroquinone. Scanning electron microscopy indicated that the surface of dyed cotton fiber was much rougher than that of the control sample. Moreover, X‐ray photoelectron spectroscopy also revealed the existence of the chitosan/polymerized hydroquinone complex and polymerized hydroquinone on the dyed cotton fibers. This chitosan‐templated approach offers possibility for biological dyeing coloration of cotton fabrics and other cellulosic materials.