2026-09-21T19:29:49Zhttps://dora.dmu.ac.uk/server/oai/requestoai:dora.dmu.ac.uk:2086/193152023-09-27T13:04:00Zcom_2086_2388col_2086_2389
Design For Movement: Block Pattern Design For Stretch Performancewear
Watkins, Penelope A
Pattern drafting techniques for woven block patterns have been well
established. Applying existing techniques with modifications to generate
patterns for modern stretch fabrics can be successful but it is often at a cost.
In the development of a stretch pattern, an acceptable fit cannot be
guaranteed merely by using a rationalised simple pattern profile shape.
Producing a pattern, without darts, to closely adhere to the contours of the
body without restricting movement, is a contradiction in design terms. In
woven fabric, darts and ease are used to manipulate the fabric around the form
and allow movement. However, in stretch knit fabric the development of a
block pattern involves the synthesis of information from a variety of disciplines
and requires a more specialist approach.
This study has endeavoured to show that a new interpretation of pattern design
principles is needed to create an improved stretch block pattern for stretch knit
performancewear. This work has been refined based on a new method of
classifying stretch fabric parameters and personal observation of the effect of
stretch distortion characteristics and the changes that occur in the twodimensional
pattern profile, when stretched to conform to the threedimensional
body.
The results of this study will provide a more SCientific and practical approach to
assessing stretch fabric parameters as an integral part of block pattern design
for stretch performancewear. The fabric stretch potential has been maximised
to contour the body for optimum fit, providing comfort and mobility without the
need for redistribution of the fabric when activity ceases. A method of creating
a stretch block pattern from direct measurements to replicate the body shape
and proportions was devised which can be reduplicated.
This study addresses primarily the designer/pattern cutter who has a passion
for good fit, which enhances comfort and mobility, who does not necessarily
have a scientific background. However this study is relevant to the textile
technologist concerned with proposing a standard to compare stretch fabrics for
garment production. It should also appeal to the computer programmer
concerned with the link between 3D body scanning and interpreting the body
profile accurately in the 2D pattern draft.
De Montfort University
1999-12
Thesis or dissertation
Doctoral
PhD
en
https://dora.dmu.ac.uk/handle/2086/19315
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