2026-09-21T14:48:06Zhttps://dora.dmu.ac.uk/server/oai/requestoai:dora.dmu.ac.uk:2086/107462019-03-20T04:05:25Zcom_2086_2388col_2086_2389
The influence of woven stretch fabric properties on pattern design.
Tsai, I-Chin
Conventional pattern construction and pattern making methods typically require
the size measurements of a range of standard mannequins or human bodies in order to
construct the varying pattern blocks for garment design. These various methods and
skills, in the fashion industry, factory or studio are performed by pattern makers or
producers, and are refined through the garment sampling and wearer trial system (an
uneconomical trial and error) used on woven garments or on woven stretch garments to
produce varying garment designs. This is particularly true when fabric stretch and
recovery properties and values are encountered. There is a strong alliance with the
heuristic knowledge.
The aim of the present work is to investigate the influence of woven stretch
fabric properties on pattern construction. The stretch and recovery properties of woven
stretch fabrics will be taken account for pattern reduction and alteration for the
development of a suitable garment pattern to fit the body shape and to meet the comfort
requirement during the body movement. The relationship between the degree of
alteration and reduction and the relevant fabric stretch properties is to be established.
In this thesis, the stretch and recovery properties of various woven stretch
fabrics have been measured. The conventional pattern is reduced and altered based on
the comfort requirement for body movement, fit to body shape and the extension and
recovery properties of the woven stretch fabric. Wearer trial test of the altered garment
pattern of woven stretch fabrics is carried out for subjective and objective evaluation in
the reference of the traditional woven garment pattern. Their comfort and garment
appearances are evaluated by a panel of judges and the wearer. The size and shape
stability of garments after the wearing tests are assessed. The results demonstrated that
the new pattern method was significantly better for woven stretch fabric. The garment
pattern for fit and comfort can be predicated and produced according to the extension
and recovery properties of fabrics.
De Montfort University
2001
Thesis or dissertation
Doctoral
PhD
en
http://hdl.handle.net/2086/10746
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Textile fabrics Fibers