Faculty of Arts, Design and Humanities
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Browsing Faculty of Arts, Design and Humanities by Research Institute "Institute of Arts, Design and Performance"
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Item Open Access 3D Printing to Create Surface Patterns on Textile Fabrics(2024-12-02) Shen, Jinsong; Alsabhi, Randa; Davies, Angela; Bingham, Guy3D printing technology has been developing rapidly in recent years. The Fused Deposition Modelling (FDM) process uses the extrusion of molten thermoplastic materials through heated printing nozzle to create design objects layer by layer. The current research was to develop 3D printing technology on textile fabrics to create surface design based on FDM process using the Ultimake 3D printer. Printing parameters play an important role for printing on fabrics specially to achieve strong adhesion between the printed patterns and the surface of the fabrics. This research developed a method for assessing the attachment strength in the interface between the printed objects and the surface of fabrics. The effect of the initial setting distance between the printing nozzle and the printing platform on the performance of 3D printed fabrics was investigated. The strong attachment of printed patterns on the fabrics can be achieved through the fuse of printed filament polymer into the surface structure of fabric. The chemical finishing could change the surface property of the fabrics. The water repellent finishing can improve the quality of 3D print on textile fabrics with stronger attachment. The research work demonstrated the ability to create different design patterns in 3D on the fabrics with excellent durability to washing, which shows potential for the commercial application in fashion industry.Item Open Access A Learning Journey, modules, pathways and CPD(2020-09-11) Rowan, N.For learners entering University they know they have a passion for their subject and are hungry to learn, however their journey is not always clear and the pathways to knowledge can be closed within modules or levels. Throughout the University knowledge can be siloed which may stop learners making intuitive leaps between modules and fully grasping the interconnected nature of their programmes. As for programmes with pathways, it is not always clear what a pathway will entail until the learner is already committed to that journey and other pathways may start to appear more appealing. Through a CAI sabbatical I aimed to create a Blackboard Community that encapsulates a learners journey on our programmes in Product Design and allow the learner to access key materials and skills in a single place without the barriers of module or level. The aims of this project were: • To place all core knowledge in a single easily accessible place • To allow learners to openly see and interact with materials from all levels of their study at a point that it interests them Additional benefits to this resource have been: • This resource can be used proactively to inspire students with material which may not be on their core module. In my area we have 3 programmes that share a number of core modules with specialisations. This has allowed students to view non-core materials. • This resource can be used retrospectively, to further support students who have struggled in an LO in a specific assessment. On our mark sheets we have produced a formula which looks at a student’s grade for a specific LO and it that drops below a threshold a comment can be added to their feedback saying “I note you have struggled with X please find additional resources on that topic here X’Item Open Access Agentive Green Mobility: Everyday Performance Training for Women on Wheels(Taylor and Francis, 2024-10-01) Garton, RosieThrough the lens of everyday performance, I examine how females on bicycles are marked as both highly visible spectacles and invisible ‘others’. In developing the feminist promise of the mechanically monstrous cyborg, I offer a new revolutionary figure of hope – the cycleborg – who puts her otherness to use. In painting the image of the cycleborg, I suggest that she offers a position for the cycling female to make subversive use of her patriarchally-assigned image of the monstrous other. As she rallies against her training of feminine comportment, the cycleborg simultaneously welcomes her instinctive gendered training to navigate hostile, patriarchal climates. She joins her feminist killjoy allies in training to be a seen and heard nuisance. As our fast and fuel-less cycleborg pedals between exhaust fumes and traffic-jammed revving motors, she performs her honed physical, spatial and sensorial skills in an agile and agentive mode of environmentally-friendly mobility. An awareness of performance training offers this daily practice of green living a toolkit from which to understand the complex positioning of her embodied and gendered urban mobility and to carry out her spatial act of resilience. I argue that as an unfamiliar and more-than-human hybrid, she has the potential to make use of her performative hypervisibility to emphasise both a re-thinking of hegemonic attitudes whilst also presenting the potential for human agency and responsibility in the future of the environment.Item Embargo AI: artistic collaborator?(Springer, 2024-09-30) Anscomb, ClaireIncreasingly, artists describe the feeling of creating images with generative AI systems as like working with a “collaborator”—a term that is also common in the scholarly literature on AI image-generation. If it is appropriate to describe these dynamics in terms of collaboration, as I demonstrate, it is important to determine the form and nature of these joint efforts, given the appreciative relevance of different types of contribution to the production of an artwork. Accordingly, I examine three kinds of collaboration that can be found in the philosophical literature on artistic authorship—collective authorship, co-creatorship, and co-production—to determine whether human-AI interactions comprise joint efforts as per such kinds. As I find, collaboration is a concept that invokes rich psychological terms and so one to used be with care in relation to generative AI, which does not yet meet the conditions to count as an artistic collaborator in the senses derived from the literature. To progress discussions on ethical and legal issues that are raised by image-making practices involving generative AI, and further research into the distinctive qualities afforded by interactions with these systems, I argue that we ought to frame their contributions to the production of visual artworks in terms of a “generative” contribution and describe the interactions between humans and generative AI systems as “AI-assisted production”.Item Metadata only Item Metadata only Before The Fighting”, Mother Said, ‘The Airport Sparkled(2024-08-20) Taylor, MariaItem Open Access Collaboration and Conflict in the Women's Art Movement(Taylor and Francis, 2024-10-16) Curtis, HarrietItem Embargo Creating Images with Generative AI: An Imaginative Aid(Routledge, 2024-08-01) Anscomb, ClaireIncreasingly, both public and professional creators are being assisted by generative artificial intelligence (AI) systems in the production of images. Concerns have been expressed about the potential for these technologies to decrease human creative agency or aesthetic diversity. To examine whether these concerns are warranted, the psychological and philosophical literature on creativity and imagination is examined. Drawing on this, two senses are distinguished in which generative AI systems can be used as imaginative aids: (1) to aid a user in visualizing an idea; and (2) to aid a user in cognitive play. The latter, unlike the former, is central to creativity and it is also rarer in the use of these systems. The case is made that to facilitate this kind of use more widely and ameliorate the aforementioned worries, the development of these systems ought to focus on not only technical improvements, such as greater control over elements like training data, but also attitudinal changes, so that users do not suffer from illusions of creatorship that may inhibit the development of their aesthetic aims and autonomy.Item Open Access Dance teaching in HE: further thoughts on the possibilities of artistic citizenship for decolonial practice(Taylor and Francis, 2024-06-16) Adewole Elliott, FunmiBuilding on my argument in a recently published book chapter, ‘Toward Decoloniality and Artistic Citizenship’ (2023), this article discusses how the concept of artistic citizenship could create a conceptual space for decolonial thinking for dance teaching within the Higher Education (HE) curriculum. This interrogation is informed by my role as a lecturer who teaches dance practice based on African dance styles and principles in UK HE. I argue that making artistic citizenship an explicit part of the critical framework for dance pedagogy creates a common vantage point for students of all cultural backgrounds and better conditions for their development as culturally literate artists who will work in globalised contexts. The concept of citizenship in relation to artistic practice can be used to generate a theoretical context for existing hybrid dance training in HE, which in Britain has evolved to reflect the multicultural nature of society. This theoretical context will support the research and practice of Black students and those of global majority heritage who require conceptual maps delineating how dance practices that draw on their cultural heritage have existed as part of professional practices, as well as enhancing the cultural literacy and political awareness of the whole student body.Item Embargo Dancing and the Stance: Mapping a Creative Practice in African Dance-Drama(Edinburgh University Press, 2023-12-01) Adewole, FunmiThis paper documents ‘Funmi Adewole Elliott’s Practice as Research project into her solo performance practice which is derived from African dance-drama. Her aim is to develop the theoretical context of her practice. Using methods from proposed by Robin Nelson, Linda Candy and Ernest Edmonds, her project focuses on the making of a short solo performance The Blind Side (2022). Through analysis of The Blind Side, Adewole Elliott describes how she utilises conventions of African storytelling and Neotraditional Creative Dance to create the performance piece and locate it discursive context. The project opens up a space of ‘know-what’ for her practice leading her to form three lines of inquiry; the conceptual-cultural domain in African dance-drama, the physical dramaturgy of the storyteller and what physical dramaturgy can offer Neotraditional Creative Dance practice.Item Open Access Development of enzyme-based bioprocesses for recycling and reuse of wool blended fabrics to support the textiles industry transition to a circular system(2024-11-12) Shen, Jinsong; Akonda, Mahmudul; Smith, Edward; Prajapati, Chetna D.There are constant demands to reduce the negative impact to the environment of textile materials through being more sustainable and recyclable. The new challenge facing the global textiles industry is to develop technologies for upcycling, recycling, and reuse of textile waste to achieve textile circularity. Blended fabrics have proved difficult to recycle due to fibres being intimately blended and the lack of innovation to enable separation of different fibre components, so blended textiles often end up being disposed in landfills or by incineration. Enzyme-based biotechnology has demonstrated its potential to provide innovative solutions to improve textile performance properties and reduce the negative impact of textile production on the environment. In this current research, enzyme-based biotechnology processes were explored for recycling and reuse of wool/bast fibre blended fabrics from post-consumer and/or manufacturing waste streams. Individual fibre components were separated and recovered for re-processing back into yarns for fabric production. Bast fibres are regarded as sustainable fibres for textiles due to requiring almost no water or pesticides during cultivation. Recycling and reuse of bast fibres from waste textile materials could contribute towards saving land for other types of farming, saving energy and water from processing. The current research has also demonstrated the potential to extract and reuse dyes from waste textiles for textile coloration. These research outcomes demonstrate potential opportunities to reduce the environmental impact of textile production and support the global textile industry transition to a circular system.Item Open Access Development of sustainable, antimicrobial essential oil microcapsules for use within healthcare textiles(2024-04-11) Silver, Katie; Davies, Angela; Shen, Jinsong; Qutachi, Omar; Laird, KatieThis study aims to investigate a sustainable, environmentally friendly alternative to current antimicrobial finishes for healthcare textiles.Item Metadata only Dis_place: Reflections on Creating Mixed Reality Performance using Virtual Reality Technologies(International Journal of Creative Media Research, 2021-10) Wise, KerrynDis_place is a mixed reality performance that takes audiences on a journey using a range of virtual reality (VR) technologies, immersive sound, and live dance performance. Through close analysis of my practice as research project, this article presents reflections on the developing creative strategies and approaches to making VR-based mixed reality performance. It traces the creative process in the making of the work, combining links to the VR artwork, video footage of the live performance, and images from the project. This is combined with my observations and analysis of audience feedback. Through this analysis, the writing assesses the affordances of using VR technologies within immersive performance practices, addressing some of the technological, practical, choreographic, and conceptual concerns. Concluding that these technologies have huge potential for offering audiences new embodied encounters that can shift perspectives and produce transformational, intimate, emotive, and unsettling experiences.Item Metadata only ‘Dwelling Poetically’ in the Dance Studio: The Poetry in the Prose of Being(Rowman and Littlefield, 2024-12) Leach, MartinItem Open Access Editorial: Seeking solidarity and wonder through performance(Taylor and Francis, 2024-06-16) Curtis, Harriet; Clarke, AlissaThis is the Editorial for the special issue of Studies in Theatre and Performance (44.1, 2024) on ‘Seeking solidarity and wonder through performance’. In it, the editors situate the special issue and its contributions in existing and evolving contexts of solidarity, and in particular the changing global contexts of violence, fracture, precarity, and warfare that continually inform and shape the creative practices and processes through which solidarity might be realised and enacted. The Editorial summarises and frames the issue contributions, and with them invite readers to consider: commitment and work as a means of shaping and breaking solidarity; states of vulnerability that enable connection with others; intercultural processes and practices as modes of solidarity; intersectional, feminist, queer, and decolonial approaches as forms of collective action and resistance; past acts of solidarity and collective resistance; notions of collective engagement between self, other, and environment; radical models of collaborative or collective artistic practices and processes; and the possibilities (with and within solidarity) of wonder, hope, and surprise.Item Open Access Endangered, Imperfect, Renegade and Re-imagined Tassels and Passementerie(The Textile Society, 2025-02-07) Gaukrodger-Cowan, SallyItem Open Access Exploitation of Up-down Tapping Washing Method for Removing Different Soil Types from Cotton Fabric(Sage, 2025-02-17) Zhao, Xin; Shen, Jinsong; Ding, XuemeiMore gentle washing methods are required in order to maintain the satisfactory appearance of delicate or luxury garments. In the current study, a new washing method with an up–down tapping action was introduced for delicate garments. The influence of tapping washing parameters used in the new washing method on the removal of five different types of IEC soiling from cotton fabrics was investigated. The cleaning performance of the tapping washing method mainly relies on the turbulent flow of the washing liquor and a gentle mechanical tapping action without a friction force being applied to fabrics during laundry. Tapping washing could maintain the good appearance of the fabrics without fibre damage and remove water-soluble soil but it had difficulty removing water-insoluble soil. However, the washing efficiency of water-insoluble soil could be improved by adjusting the levels of washing parameters. Further development and optimisation of the up–down tapping washing method could make a good balance between sufficient washing of soiled fabrics and the maintenance of fabric appearance without causing fibre damage.Item Open Access Found in Translation: unlearning ‘expertise’ in inclusive dance practice(2023-08-31) Doughty, Sally; Smith, SueNames of presenters: Sally Doughty and Sue Smith Nature of proposal: Presentation/provocation Title: Found in Translation: unlearning ‘expertise’ in inclusive dance practice Abstract: This presentation/provocation responds to the conference theme of ‘addressing hierarchies’, and suggests how ‘unlearning’ can challenge histories of inclusive dance practices. We reflect on our research undertaken as part of Critical Mass, an inclusive mass choreography performed at the Commonwealth Games 2022 Opening Ceremony. Interrogating how disabled and non-disabled young people learn the codified dance styles of Breaking and Kuchipudi, we propose that embedding inclusivity more rigorously in dance practices, from studio to management, promotes unlearning as a guiding disposition. Our provocation is that unlearning expertise in/of the dancing body radically shifts expectations of ‘difference’ in dance practices. Interrogating inclusive participation and translation within Breaking and Kuchipudi, we propose that good practice includes challenging individuals to explore and move beyond existing movement boundaries without prioritising certain bodies or expressive capacities over others. This, in turn, challenges current operational and conceptual hierarchies in dance pedagogy and production. Translation, interpretation and authenticity promote individual expressions of identity, participant-led agendas and the generation of new communities (Bartlett 2017; Whatley 2007; Elin and Boswell 2004), that support reinterpretation and invention rather than fulfilling the physical geometry of codified dance vocabularies. Through unlearning loyalty to a movement idea (‘that’s not a headspin, this is!’) we propose new insights for studio practice and pedagogy in which people with different bodies and neurologies can idiosyncratically express movement whilst being united by qualities, efforts, direction and intention. Approaching movement translation from this perspective requires a degree of unlearning (McLeod et al 2020; Visser 2017; Risner 2009) and the acknowledgement that earlier learnings may be incorrect and reductive. We therefore set a provocation for unlearning that challenges traditional ways of using translation in inclusive dance practices, and reimagines traditional hierarchies or ‘cascades’ of knowledge as more rhizomic structures with multi-directional forces of expertise that inform processes, experiences and outcomes.Item Metadata only From Heidegger to Performance(Rowman and Littlefield, 2024-12) Hay, Marie; Leach, MartinItem Metadata only From revolution to revenue stream: How corporate targets co-opt social movement attacks(Academy of Management, 2024-07-09) Marquez-Gallardo, S. L.; Krabbe, A. D.Research on social movements has shown that activist attacks on corporate targets can help to create new market opportunities. Because these opportunities tend to be oppositional to incumbent industries, theory posits that incumbents are unlikely to exploit these opportunities. However, we suggest that corporate targets might be able to leverage activist attacks to their own advantage. Drawing on a longitudinal study of commercial academic publishers’ responses to the Open Access Movement, we propose a theoretical model of how incumbent organizations can benefit from the market opportunities resulting from social movement attacks by manipulating powerful third-party stakeholders’ perception of alignment or misalignment with the corporate targets and social movement respectively. To do so, corporate targets first co-opt social movements’ frames by exploiting the distance between activists’ and powerful stakeholders’ concerns. Second, corporate targets redefine social movements’ claims to create new market opportunities that is aligned the powerful stakeholders’ concerns. Our paper moves beyond the current focus on how social movements create new, oppositional markets to how corporate targets co-opt social movement attacks to enhance their market position.
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