Browsing by Author "Prajapati, Chetna"

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    Biotechnology for textile coloration and surface pattern
    (2016-09) Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong
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    Development of Durable Shrink-resist Coating of Wool with Sol-gel Polymer Processing
    (Springer, 2017-09-27) Shen, Jinsong; Smith, Edward; Chizyuka, Mutinta; Prajapati, Chetna
    Knitted wool fabric was pre-treated with the serine type protease, Esperase 8.0L (EC3.4.21.62), and sodium sulphite followed by an immersion treatment with a sol-gel hybrid polymer. To enhance the durability of the sol-gel treatment on wool, one of two different alkoxysilane containing coupling epoxy or mercapto groups were added to the sol-gel hybrid. The combination of protease treatment with an immersion sol-gel treatment achieved wool fabric that was lightweight with a soft handle and had combined shrink-resistance and hydrophobic properties without fibre discoloration. The addition of an alkoxysilane with a mercapto coupling group within the sol-gel hybrid gave better performance than using an alkoxysilane with an epoxy coupling group in terms of polymer uptake, fabric shrink resistance, whiteness and durability to washing.
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    Enzyme catalysed coloration and surface patterning
    (2017-09) Prajapati, Chetna; Shen, Jinsong; Smith, Edward
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    Enzyme Catalysed Coloration and Surface Patterning
    (World Textile Information Network, 2017-01) Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong
    COLORATION IS AN important process in textile finishing, which is commonly used to enhance the appearance and attractiveness of a cloth. Conventional textile coloration methods and techniques employed to create surface patterning through dyeing and printing systems are known to have a negative impact on the environment due to their resource intensive production processes. 1, 2 The adoption of an alternative approach using enzymes could potentially offer processes with improved environmental sustainable qualities by eliminating the inherent drawbacks associated with chemical processes. 3 Enzymes are highly specific biocatalysts, that can operate under mild processing conditions, therefore, reducing not only the consumption of chemicals, energy and water, but also the subsequent generation of effluent waste. Furthermore, enzymes are biodegradable and offer the possibility of recycling. The application of enzymes for textile wet processing have been examined widely. Desizing, bio-scouring, bio-polishing and bleach clean-up using enzymes have become well established industrially. However, only limited work has been carried out on the application of enzymes for textile surface design. Enzymes, protease and laccase, were used in this study as innovative biotechnology-based textile design tools for textile coloration and surface patterning.
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    Enzyme processing technology to generate textile surface patterning
    (Transition: Re-thinking Textiles and Surfaces, 2014) Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong
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    Enzyme-based biotechnology for textile coloration and surface pattern
    (2018-07-23) Shen, Jinsong; Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith
    Coloration is an important process in textile finishing, which is commonly used to enhance the appearance and attractiveness of a fabric. Conventional textile coloration methods and techniques employed to create surface patterning through dyeing and printing systems are known to have a negative impact on the environment due to their resource intensive production processes. The adoption of an alternative approach using enzymes (bio-catalysts) could potentially offer processes with improved environmental sustainability by eliminating the inherent drawbacks associated with chemical processes. Enzymes, laccase and protease were used in this study as innovative biotechnology-based textile design tools. Two enzymatic based processes were investigated to achieve textile coloration and or decorative surface patterning of fabric as an alternative to conventional chemical processes. The study demonstrates the ability of laccase, through controlled application, to produce innovative coloration of wool and polyamide textile materials, and the enzyme protease to selectively modify wool blended fabrics to impart innovative decorative surface effects through fibre modification and degradation. Both processes offer important advantages over conventional processing methods, which use simpler and milder operating conditions that eliminate additional chemical use and reduce energy consumption.
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    Enzyme-based Biotechnology for Textile Coloration and Surface Patterning
    (2018-06-20) Shen, Jinsong; Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith
    Textile wet processing, including preparation, coloration and finishing, significantly improves the performance of textile materials and apparel. However, conventional textile processes consume large quantities of water, energy and chemicals. As there is an increasing demand for sustainable textile materials and apparel, a major challenge ahead for textile manufacturing is to improve textile wet processing by replacing harmful chemicals and reducing the consumption of water and energy. Extensive research efforts have been made to develop enzymatic bioprocesses as alternatives to replace conventional textile processing methods. Laccases (oxidoreductase, EC 1.10.3.2) have become important enzymes for their application in textile processing due to their great versatility and capability of catalysing the oxidation of a broad substrate spectrum. Laccase is capable of catalysing the polymerisation of simple aromatic compounds to create polymeric colorants useful for textile fibre coloration. The use of laccase offers an attractive alternative method of coloration, with potential economic and environmental benefits. The current study demonstrates the ability of laccase, through controlled application, to produce innovative coloration of wool and nylon textile materials. A range of colours can be achieved through the alteration of processing conditions of the in-situ enzymatic coloration process used. The use of different fibre types and weave structures enabled simple colour variations to be produced with unique shadow, reserve and contrasting effects.
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    Innovative Technologies for Sustainable Textile Coloration and Surface Design
    (2018-04-24) Morgan, Laura; Prajapati, Chetna; Shen, Jinsong; Kane, Faith; Tyrer, John; Smith, Edward
    The environmental impact of textile dyeing and finishing is of paramount concern in the textile industry. Research into two emerging textile processing technologies, laser processing and enzyme biotechnology, were investigated as a means of applying new surface design and coloration techniques with a focus on improving the efficiency and sustainability of existing textile design and finishing methods. Each technique considered a reduction in energy, dye chemicals, and subsequent waste water effluent for sustainable textile processing. Through industrial stakeholder engagement and cross-disciplinary research involving textile design, fibre and dye chemistry, biotechnology and optical engineering, the work resulted in a catalogue of new coloration and design techniques including: • Laser enhanced dyeing for wool and wool blend textiles; • Peri-dyeing: a laser dye-fixation method for textiles; • Laser moulding for synthetic stretch textiles; • Laser fading linen; • Laccase catalysed coloration for textile fibres; • Laccase catalysed decoloration to achieve decorative surface patterning; • Enzyme generated surface patterning; • Enzyme assisted printing for decorative surface patterning.
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    Innovative Technologies for Sustainable Textile Coloration, Patterning, and Surface Effects
    (Springer, 2020-04-01) Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong; Morgan, Laura; Prajapati, Chetna; Tyrer, John; Smith, Edward
    The environmental impact of textile dyeing and finishing is of paramount concern in the textile industry. Enzyme and laser processing technologies present attractive alternatives to conventional textile coloration and surface patterning methods. Both technologies have the capability to reduce the impact of manufacturing on the environment by reducing the consumption of chemicals, water and energy, and the subsequent generation of waste. Two emerging textile processing technologies, laser processing and enzyme biotechnology, were investigated as a means of applying surface design and color to materials with a focus on improving the efficiency and sustainability of existing textile design and finishing methods. Through industrial stakeholder engagement and interdisciplinary research involving textile design, fiber and dye chemistry, biotechnology and optical engineering, this design-led project brought together design practice and science with a commercial focus. Each technology was used to modify targeted material properties, finding and exploiting opportunities for the design and finishing of textiles. The work resulted in a catalog of new coloration and design techniques for both technologies making it possible to achieve: selective surface pattern by differential dyeing, combined three-dimensional and color finishing and novel coloration of textile materials. The chapter provides a literature review mapping the use of enzyme biotechnology and laser processing technology within textile design and manufacturing to date, identifying current and future opportunities to reduce environmental impacts through their application. The methodological approach, which was interdisciplinary and design-led, will be introduced and the specific design and scientific methods applied will be detailed. Each of the techniques developed will be discussed and examples of the design effects achieved will be presented. And, an indication of the reductions in chemical effluent, efficiencies in resource use, and design-flexibility in comparison with traditional textile coloration and surface patterning techniques will be given.
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    An investigation into enzyme processing technology to generate textile surface patterning
    (2014) Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong
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    Laccase-catalysed coloration for textile fibres
    (2015-06) Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong
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    Laccase-catalysed coloration of wool and nylon
    (Wiley, 2018-07-09) Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong
    The potential for laccase (EC 1.10.3.2) to be used within the area of textile coloration, specifically for the generation of decorative surface pattern design, remains relatively unexplored. The current study presents a novel process for the coloration of wool and nylon 6,6 fibres via laccase oxidation of aromatic compounds as an alternative to conventional dyeing methods. Emphasis was placed on producing a diverse colour palette, which was achieved through the investigation of three different aromatic compounds as laccase substrates: 1,4-dihydroxybenzene, 2,7-dihydroxynapthalene and 2,5-diaminobenzenesulphonic acid. Reaction processing parameters such as buffer systems and pH values, laccase and aromatic compound concentrations, and reaction times were investigated, all in the absence of additional chemical auxiliaries. Enzymatically dyed fabrics were tested against commercial standards, resulting in reasonably good colour fastness to wash. To demonstrate the coloration and design potential by laccase catalysation of aromatic compounds, specially constructed fabrics using a combination of undyed wool, nylon and polyester yarns were dyed using the one-step laccase-catalysed coloration process. The use of different fibre types and weave structures enabled simple colour variations to be produced. Shadow, reserve and contrasting effects were achieved with the laccase-catalysed dyeing process developed. Important advantages over conventional processing methods include the use of simpler and milder processing conditions that eliminate additional chemical use and reduce energy consumption.
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    Laccase-catalysed colouration of wool and nylon fibres
    (2016-09) Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong
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    New Approaches for Textile Colouration and Surface Pattern Using Enzyme-based Biotechnology
    (Taylor and Francis, 2022-12-20) Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong
    The research presented in this paper gives an overview of a study which was undertaken to investigate the potential offered by the enzyme laccase (EC.1.10.3.2) as a creative design tool for innovative coloration and decorative surface pattern of textiles with a focus on providing sustainable alternatives to conventional processes used in industry. Research was conducted in two parts. The control (scientific) phase explored laccases potential for transforming a range of colourless aromatic compounds into coloured polymeric products via its reaction mechanism, and its ability to facilitate the coloration of most commonly used textile fibre types. Reaction processing parameters such as temperature, pH values, aromatic compound concentrations, and reaction times were investigated to achieve a diverse colour palette, ranging from light - medium to dark shades of blue, green, pink, purple and yellow hues. Wool and nylon fibre types were found to be most suitable for laccase-catalysed coloration. The creative phase investigated the design potential offered by the enzymatic coloration process developed; different and contrasting substantivity properties offered by various fibre types were exploited to produce shadow, reserve, and contrasting coloured effects on specially woven jacquard fabrics. The research demonstrates the potential offered by laccase as a transformative tool to replace conventional industrial coloration and surface pattern design processes with biological systems, which offer important advantages of simpler processing using milder conditions that eliminate additional chemical use and reduce energy consumption. The adoption of enzyme-based biotechnologies could help the textile industry transition towards a sustainable future.
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    Selective enzymatic modification of wool/polyester blended fabrics for surface patterning
    (Elsevier, 2018-11-10) Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward; Kane, Faith; Shen, Jinsong
    An enzyme-based process was investigated to achieve surface patterning of fabrics as an alternative to conventional chemical processes. In the current study, the enzyme protease was employed to selectively modify a wool/polyester blended fabric to impart decorative surface effects. Controlled protease processing of the blended fabric dyed with Lanasol Blue CE enabled the degradation and removal of the dyed wool fibre component from the fabric blend, resulting in novel fading and differential fabric relief due to degradation of wool, revealing the undyed polyester component after enzyme treatment. A 38.5% weight loss was achieved, therefore 85.6% of the wool in the 45/55% wool/polyester blended fabric was removed from the structure. The activity of protease is highly specific, therefore, it caused no damage to the polyester component. The control studies led to the development of surface pattern designs using the enzyme process, achieving effects similar to current processes such as devor e and discharge printing. This novel enzyme process permits the replacement of harsh chemicals used in current surface patterning processes with small doses of biodegradable enzymes.
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    Surface modification of wool with proteolytic enzyme and sol-gel polymer
    (2015-06) Shen, Jinsong; Chizyuka, Mutinta; Prajapati, Chetna; Smith, Edward